Difference between revisions of "DIY - Vacuum Forming Box"

Latest revision as of 15:06, 6 January 2023

© Mark Qvale - June, 2018

Contents 1 Introduction 1.1 Tools I Used 1.2 Specifications 1.3 Parts & Pieces 2 The Build 2.1 First Things First 2.2 Base Build 2.3 Frame Build 2.4 Heat Box Build 3 First Vacu-Form! 3.1 Mods 3.2 Next! 4 See Also
	New DIY Tool

Introduction

After doing hundreds of 3D prints for canopies, skids, shields, et., I decided to build my own Vacuum Forming box so I could get the weight dramatically down on some these parts. I did a pile of research and found many different styles and sizes but finally decided to simply take the things I liked in many pictures found on google and design my own. This then is my version.

Tools I Used

Besides the basic hand tools, these tools helped immensely with keeping things sized and squared perfectly.

1. 10" Chop saw w/60 tooth carbide blade

2. Drill press

3. 10" Table saw

4. Picture frame clamps

Specifications

Forming Deck	8" x 10"
Sheet Size	9-1/2" x 11-1/2"
Dimensions	12-3/4" x 25-1/4" x 5-1/2"
Watts	1000

Parts & Pieces

Here is the complete parts list for this project. All dimensions and screw specs for this project are imperial (inches). The dimensions for the wood cut pieces are based on perfectly sized wood so if you copy this you will need to make adjustments based on the wood you select.

Cut List

2x	Hardwood 3/4 x 2-3/4 x 11-1/2
2x	Hardwood 3/4 x 3-1/4 x 24
2x	Hardwood 3/4 x 3-1/4 x 11-1/2
2x	Hardwood 5/8 x 1-1/2 x 2
2x	Hardwood 3/4 x 2-3/4 x 10
1x	Hardwood 3/4 x 2-3/4 x 10-1/8
1x	Plywood 1/4 x 11-1/2 x 24
1x	Plywood 1/4 x 11-1/2 x 14
1x	Pine Laminate 1 x 8 x 10
2x	Alum Flatbar 1/8 x 1 x 3-1/2
2x	Alum Angle 1/16 x 1/2 x 1/2 x 14L
2x	Alum Angle 1/16 x 1/2 x 1/2 x 10-1/2L
2x	Alum Angle 1/16 x 1/2 x 1/2 x 9-1/2L
2x	Alum Angle 1/16 x 1/2 x 1/2 x 11-1/4L
1x	Wood Dowel 1/2D x 10-1/2L
1x	Galvanized Sheet Metal, 30ga, 16 x 14

Hardware

4x	#8 x 1-1/4" wood Screws
14x	#4 x 3/4" wood screws
4x	#8-32 x 2" round head machine screws
5x	#8-32 x 1" pan head machine screws
20x	#6-32 x 3/8" flat head machine screws
8x	#6-32 x 3/8" pan head machine screws
2x	#12-24 x 3/4" button head machine screws
9x	#8-32 hex nuts
28x	#6-32 hex nuts
2x	#12 nylok hex nuts
14x	#8 flat washers
2x	3/16 x 3/8 x 3/16 nylon spacers
8x	small steel flat corner brackets
5x	3/16 x 1/2 x 3/8L phenolic spacers
4x	1/2 x 5/8D rubber feet w/screws
10x	3/4" binder (spring) clips

Heater Components

Walmart Toaster Oven

If you live where the power is 220v look for a toaster oven that is 800 - 1000 watts with two elements.

The Build

First Things First

Toaster Oven

While reading many articles on how to create an effective heating element I found a YouTube video from a guy who was simply using a toaster oven to heat the plastic in an aluminum frame. So, I bought a toaster oven at Wallmart for $19 and gave this method a try. I found that these heating elements provided more than enough heat for this purpose so I incorporated the heat elements and the complete oven control system in my design.

WallMart toaster oven

Base Build

I started with the wood box. Using the 10" Chop saw I could make the corners nearly perfectly square which is a big plus.

Cut wood pieces and box build

I had a set of picture frame corner clamps which make the set-up and alignment of the corners super easy and solid.

Corner clamps

After the four corners were complete, I set everything else up and glued them all in with clamps to hold it all in place.

Box build

With the box completed I then needed to put the two top pieces together and drill the vacuum deck.

Box and top parts

I laid out the hole pattern on my computer and printed a template that I used to center-mark the holes.

Template for marking and drilling the vac holes

Frame Build

The two frames are pretty basic builds. Using the chop saw with the 60 tooth carbide blade I first cut to length the for main frame pieces then cut the four mitered pieces for the clamp frame.

Aluminum frame components

The clamp frame then required four holes at each corner with the flat side or the aluminum angle being counter sunk to fit the #6-32 x 3/8 screws.

Clamp frame corner detail

The main frame was put together using corner brackets made from the flat corner brackets I had on hand. These have three holes in each bracket and I used #6-32 flat head screws on the inside flat surface. The two outside screws are #6-32 x 3/8 pan head screws.

Main frame joint detail

I then cut a section of the 1/2" dowel stock for the handle and mounted it with a wood screw on each end.

Completed frames

The completed frames held together with the 10 binder clips.

Completed and mounted frames

Heat Box Build

The heater box is made from thin galvanized sheet metal that I found in the air duct section of my local hardware store (Lowes). I layed it out and cut it with small metal shears after drilling all the corner and mount holes.

Sheetmetal layout and cut

I bent it using a couple of boards and the floor. This sheet metal is thin enough to bend by hand and finish by taping with a wood piece.

Completed heat box

After the box was bent and screwed together, I opened up the four holes and mounted the heater elements. I used the mount plates from the Toaster oven.

Heat element mount detail

First Vacu-Form!

So, for a first try I used a spare 3D printed canopy for one of my Mini Talons. This part is large, has a complex surface with bumps, holes, air vents and some writing on the vertical surfaces.

To start I mount a piece of .020 PETG sheet between the frames place the mold piece on the vacuum deck. I then turn on the shop vac and then the heater and wait for the plastic sheet to sag about an inch in the center.

Wait for it!

Once the plastic has sagged enough, I flip the frame over the mold. The plastic sheet immediately forms over the mold and I shut off the heater and vacuum.

What's that sucking sound?

The results of this first piece are excellent! Once parted and cleaned up, it is a perfect match.

A very light, near perfect replacement part!

Mods

22 June, 2018
I added a limit switch that controls when the heaters are on. This is coupled to a small relay to handle the higher current of the heaters. The switch functons to only allow the heaters to heat when the frame is down over the heaters and to turn the heaters off when the frame and plastic are flipped over to the vacuum side.

The switch is an SPDT micro switch with a straight lever I could bend to reach the frame -

The relay is a DPDT unit with 30A contacts and a 120v coil -

Switch Parts:

Switch - Switch, Straight Lever, SPDT, 3A, 250VAC

Relay - Omron LY2-UA-006244 Relay, DPDT, 30A, 120VAC

Next!

Next up I will look into creating plaster molds of some of the skids and wing protection parts I have made with other methods.

See Also

• Current Parts Catalogs
• DIY - Battery Pack Spot Welder
• DIY - Dynamic Motor and Prop Balancer
• DIY - Motor and Prop Test Bench
• DIY - Vacuum Forming Box