Difference between revisions of "DIY - Vacuum Forming Box"
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'''Hardware'''<br> | '''Hardware'''<br> | ||
: 4x #8 x 1-1/4" wood Screws | : 4x #8 x 1-1/4" wood Screws | ||
| − | : | + | : 14x #4 x 3/4" wood screws |
: 4x #8-32 x 2" round head machine screws | : 4x #8-32 x 2" round head machine screws | ||
: 5x #8-32 x 1" pan head machine screws | : 5x #8-32 x 1" pan head machine screws | ||
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: 5x 3/16 x 1/2 x 3/8L phenolic spacers | : 5x 3/16 x 1/2 x 3/8L phenolic spacers | ||
: 4x 1/2 x 5/8D rubber feet w/screws | : 4x 1/2 x 5/8D rubber feet w/screws | ||
| + | : 10 spring clamps | ||
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Revision as of 11:54, 6 June 2018
© Mark Qvale - June, 2018
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| New DIY Tool |
Introduction
After doing hundreds of 3D prints for canopies, skids, shields, et., I decided to build my own Vacuum Forming box so I could get the weight dramatically down on some these parts. I did a pile of research and found many different styles and sizes but finally decided to simply take the things I liked in many pictures found on google and design my own. This then is my version.
Tools I Used
Besides the basic hand tools, these power tools helped immensly with keeping things sized and squared perfectly.
- 1. 10" Chop saw w/60 tooth carbide blade
- 2. Drill press
- 3. 10" Table saw
Parts & Pieces
Here is the complete parts list for this project. All dimensions and screw specs for this project are imperial (inches). The dimensions for the wood cut pieces are based on perfectly sized wood so if you copy this you will need to make adjustments based on the wood you select.
Cut List
- Hardwood 3/4 x 2-3/4 x 11-1/2
- Hardwood 3/4 x 3-1/4 x 24
- Hardwood 3/4 x 3-1/4 x 11-1/5
- Hardwood 5/8 x 1-1/2 x 2
- Hardwood 3/4 x 2-3/4 x 10
- Hardwood 3/4 x 2-3/4 x 10-1/8
- Plywood 1/4 x 11-1/2 x 24
- Plywood 1/4 x 11-1/2 x 14
- Pine Laminate 1 x 8 x 10
- Alum Flatbar 1/8 x 1 x 3-1/2
- Alum Angle 1/16 x 1/2 x 1/2 x 14L
- Alum Angle 1/16 x 1/2 x 1/2 x 10-1/2L
- Alum Angle 1/16 x 1/2 x 1/2 x 9-1/2L
- Alum Angle 1/16 x 1/2 x 1/2 x 11-1/4L
- Wood Dowel 1/2D x 10-1/2L
- Heat Box 2-3/4 x 10-3/16 x 8-7/16
Hardware
- 4x #8 x 1-1/4" wood Screws
- 14x #4 x 3/4" wood screws
- 4x #8-32 x 2" round head machine screws
- 5x #8-32 x 1" pan head machine screws
- 20x #6-32 x 3/8" flat head machine screws
- 8x #6-32 x 3/8" pan head machine screws
- 2x #12-24 x 3/4" button head machine screws
- 9x #8-32 hex nuts
- 28x #6-32 hex nuts
- 2x #12 nylok hex nuts
- 14x #8 flat washers
- 2x 3/16 x 3/8 x 3/16 nylon spacers
- 8x small steel flat corner brackets
- 5x 3/16 x 1/2 x 3/8L phenolic spacers
- 4x 1/2 x 5/8D rubber feet w/screws
- 10 spring clamps
Heater Components
- Walmart Toaster Oven
The Build
First Things First
Toaster Oven
While reading many articles on how to create an effective heating element I found a YouTube video from a guy who was simply using a toaster oven to heat the plastic in an aluminum frame. So, I bought a toaster oven at Wallmart for $19 and gave this method a try. I found that these heating elements provided more than enough heat for this purpose so I incorporated the heat elements and the complete oven control system in my design.
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| WallMart toaster oven |
Base Build
I started with the wood box. Using the 10" Chop saw I could make the corners nearly perfectly square which is a big plus.
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| Cut wood pieces and box build |
I had a set of picture frame corner clamps which make the set-up and alignment of the corners super easy and solid.
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| Corner clamps |
After the four corners were complete, I set everything else up and glued them all in with clamps to hold it all in place.
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| Box build |
With the box completed I then needed to put the two top pieces together and drill the vacuum deck.
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| Box and top parts |
I laid out the hole pattern on my computer and printed a template that I used to center-mark the holes.
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| Template for marking and drilling the vac holes |
Frame Build
The two frames are pretty basic builds. Using the chop saw with the 60 tooth carbide blade I first cut to length the for main frame pieces then cut the four mitered pieces for the clamp frame.
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| Aluminum frame components |
The clamp frame then required four holes at each corner with the flat side or the aluminum angle being counter sunk to fit the #6-32 x 3/8 screws.
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| Clamp frame corner detail |
The main frame was put together using corner brackets made from the flat corner brackets I had on hand. These have three holes in each bracket and I used #6-32 flat head screws on the inside flat surface. The two outside screws are #6-32 x 3/8 pan head screws.
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| Main frame joint detail |
I then cut a section of the 1/2" dowel stock for the handle and mounted it with a wood screw on each end.
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| Completed frames |
The completed frames held together with spring clamps.
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| Completed and mounted frames |
Heat Box Build
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| Sheetmetal layout and cut |
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| Completed heat box |
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| Heat element mount detail |
First Mold!
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| Wait for it! |
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| What's that sucking sound? |
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| A very light, near perfect replacement part! |
See Also
TBA
